TIGER’S NEST (TAKTSANG MONASTERY)
Nandu and I tried a small deviation through the forest
to save time. We were practically alone as none else was using the diversion.
We walked ahead. Certainly it was not
easy. The familiar sight of prayer flags was conspicuous by its absence. The
flags were used for scaring away the evil-spirits! Each colour represented an
element. Blue (sky), Silver (cloud), Red (fire), Green (water) and Yellow
(earth). Perhaps the Bhutanese believed the purpose of the prayer flags had
already been fulfilled by the Forest-goddess herself! The original track was
camouflaged by murky water and we were feeling the strain. We had covered more
than half the distance and I was disoriented a bit myself! Suddenly it started
raining. Just a passing shower, but I was completely wet. No human habitation
to be seen around. The sight of Taktsang
Monastery as if hanging in the air kept me dazed and totally confused. Nothing
is real, no doubt! It’s better to keep everything to yourself, no point in
convincing anybody.
I stretched my hands to hold
on to a shrub. Suddenly I felt somebody’s strong grip over my palms. A cheerful
face was helping me out.
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| Karma Lhendup & me |
Karma Lhendup was helping me without the asking. He was much older than me, looking hale and hearty and dressed gracefully in traditional Bhutanese attire. The stranger guided me for the rest of the trek upwards. As we reached near the waterfall, 200 ft. high, contrary to our expectation, it turned gentle at the base. Many tourists were freaking out, forgetting the sanctity of the place. A narrow rope-bridge was provided overloaded with people!
I wanted to reward Karma
Lhendup for keeping me under his wings and to preserve me in good spirits
throughout the trek. We didn’t have any communication barrier as he was fluent
in Hindi. He was knee-deep in water, repairing a contraption for drinking
water. He waved his hands saying good-bye. Then he signalled to proceed on my
own.
We moved to the foyer of the
Tiger’s Nest complex. There were four temples and thirteen caves at various
levels besides the residential quarters for the monks. The complete set up was
built in 1692 AD. Before entering the
monastery, the digital gadgets, bags and footwear should be left at the
cloak-room. You get a breath-taking view of Paro Valley 3000 ft. below,
straight down. What’s more, clouds try to become friendly with you rubbing on
the shoulders. The place is 10240 ft. above MSL. You have already climbed 1000
odd steep steps. Obviously, nobody could do it at a stretch. So, better relax
in between where watering holes and a few benches were provided for the
pilgrims.
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| The arduous climb at the final phase |
The origin of Taktsang dates
back to early eighth century AD, when ‘Padmasambhava’ (also known as Guru
Rinpoche and second in hierarchy) who was a Buddhist mystic from Tibet, reached
the unique point on a special-purpose vehicle. The year was 746 AD. He
transformed his female disciple-consort named ‘Yeshe Tsogyal’ to a tigress and
flew on its back all the way from Tibet to meditate in the cave for three
years, three months and three days! This particular cave opens only once in a
year. The word “Taktsang” literally
means “Tiger’s Lair”. The main purpose of the arrival of Padmasambhava was to
subdue the local demons and after the mission accomplished, he spread Buddhism
throughout Bhutan. It is believed that Milarepa (1040 – 1123), the Perfect
Master meditated at Taktsang.
The inside of the monastery
was not really bright, natural light was rather blocked by tapestries and other
holy relics. Sacred paintings called “Thangkas” were hung from the walls. There
were “diyas”, (tiny terracotta lamps) illuminated by ghee and whole place
seemed stuffy to me. Statues of all important Buddhist sanyasis were blessing
you from all over amidst the ethereal light emanating from the ghee-lamps. Yes,
it was an enlightening ambience.
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| An overview at 3000 ft |
Perhaps due to this overstuffing of properties, a fire broke out from an overturned ghee-lamp on 19th April 1998. The monastery was destroyed and a monk lost his life. However, “Tiger’s Nest” was rebuilt in seven years with the help pouring in from all over the world.
Meanwhile we were ushered into
a rectangular prayer-hall open on two sides and were shown an impression on the
rock which was said to be the right-thumb mark of Padmasambhava! One must close
his/her eyes and walk towards the spot after closing the eyes! If you could
touch it, you’re in luck! Wish anything and it would be fulfilled! I saw a
couple in their fifties from Tamil Nadu gracefully doing the exercise. I was so
unashamed to ask the lady what she had wished for.
“World Peace”, she said “We badly
need it”.
(“Made for each other couple”,
I mused in my mind.)
“It’s time to return, lest we
would miss the lunch” Karma reminded us. “Taktsang Restaurant won’t wait for us
beyond two pm”. (In fact they had waited)!
 |
| adieu to all those param gurus |
The feeling you’d get at the
end of each travel was sort of a contentment. At that point, one’s wander-lust
ends! At least for the time-being! You’ve already changed from within. May be a
little bit, but it does matter.
The hate parked inside you is subsiding
slowly.
Now you could forgive the
whole world even if it didn’t treat you properly.
Right at this point, we have
to wind up! Covid or not, all good & bad things must come to an end.
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ONE AND ALL!
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